Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Honking horns and hippies

South American drivers consider their horn more important than their brakes. They regularly make a third lane out of a two lane road by aggressively driving inbetween the two other cars beeping their horn.

They also approach T junctions and crossroads beeping their horns as if it acts as a magical forcefield around their vehicles to protect them and their passengers.

We've grown accustomed to this alien concept over the last couple of months but were reminded on Tuesday morning at 6am when we realised the hostel room we'd checked into late the night before was overlooking a busy crossroads! As the urban frog chorus got louder and louder they were joined by the most annoying Cholita selling her wares on her market stall below our window. We couldn't understand what she was saying but she went on and on akin to a child asking their parents, "are we there yet?" for the entirety of a three hour car journey.

Safe to say, we didn't need our alarm clock to wake us and we arrived at the bus terminal ready for our pre booked trip to the Lake Titicaca floating islands just about on time (with a minor delay due to a temporarily lost ticket!).

We were driven to the port and got on to our second boat in 2 days. To our surprise, 5 minutes later, Lewis and Dylan, who we'd spent Christmas Day with, got on board! It was great to see them, especially as they'll be reading this blog later today and we'll probably be spending New Year with them in Cusco ;-)

This is our "Gangsta" pose (Dylan on the left, Lewis next to him)

Here's our "Hippy" pose (we don't know why either, Lewis just suggested our selfies should have a theme)!


200 years ago, a group of indigenous people left Puno, Peru as they were being harassed by the Incas.

They built a few large boats out of the plentiful reeds in Lake Titicaca, constructed small houses on the boats and anchored themselves in various areas of the lake, away from the Incas.

They soon realised that tiny houses on reed boats wasn't conducive to happy living (too small) so they started to cut blocks out of the roots of the growing reeds and wove colossal reed mats and laid them on top, creating floating islands. They traded woven goods, fish (caught from the lake) and other goods for large stakes and anchored each island deep into the bottom of the lake. 

On their new floating islands they built houses and 200 years later their descendants are still living there, on 87 separate islands!

As we approached the first island we weren't really sure what to expect but we were welcomed by some of the 6 families that lived on the island and were given a history lesson and tour of the island.

Small versions of the root blocks which form the foundation of the islands 


The reeds are first woven then laid on top in layers of about 1.5 metres and an extra layer is added to the whole island every 13 days as the bottom layer continually rots 

Large wooden poles are then thrust through the reeds and anchored in the bottom of the lake

The houses were incredibly built and completely waterproof


The huts are very basic inside

Individual solar panels give the huts power!

Each hut has a communication tower to send messages between all the different islands

The view from a very rickety communication tower!

After the tour, we were offered the chance to be transported to the next island in their very own reed boat.


The locals waved us off and sung to us in 4 languages including English (Twinkle, twinkle little star). It felt a little touristy!



We jumped at the chance of this authentic opportunity and were loving it until we realised that we weren't being rowed but literally being pushed along by a fella in a modern (ish) boat with a 75cc motor!


The second island was much like the first except they had their own Trout farm! Saves time fishing I guess!!


When we returned to dry land we hailed a cab and headed to a restaurant recommended on Trip Advisor for lunch.

Puno had hundreds of tiny taxis, almost like motorised rickshaws, so we got ourselves a lift in one.



The driver dropped us off near the city square and we ate our first Peruvian meal.


After a quick catch up with family on FaceTime we made a quick dash to the bus station to get our bus to Cusco.

It turned out that we'd been misinformed
and our bus was departing at 4:30pm not 4pm so we had a while to kill at the station.

This little boy was bored too and played 'peepoe' with me for best part of the hour!


About 40 minutes late, our bus finally departed. 

We'd heard that Peruvian buses weren't anywhere near as nice as the rest of South America and we can now concur.
The seats were all dirty, most had holes in and it looked like someone had eaten the arm rest on the one next to me!


There was way less leg room than any other bus we'd been on which, for a 7 hour ride, was bad news. As soon as the man in front of me reclined his shabby seat, I was forced into sitting like a frog for the duration of the journey; One knee in the aisle and the other incroaching in Lauren's minimal space.

Unfortunately for us, the journey wasn't to be 7 hours, it was 10 and goes into our top 3 worst bus journeys ever!

The woman directly behind me was on the phone when we got on the bus. Her phone continued ringing at least 20-30 times, mostly while everyone was trying to sleep, throughout the tedious journey. 

Her loud voice was so frustrating but wasn't the only noisy thing to contend with.

There was a Chinese guy on my right who'd drawn the short straw and was sitting in the chewed seat. It turns out his Father was Darth Vader and his mother was an asthmatic walrus. As the phone lady finished a call, Chinese Walrus-Vader would start snoring as if his life depended on it. The only thing that stopped him was when the lady's phone rang again.

Safe to say we arrived in Cusco completely shattered at 2am instead of 11pm and a taxi took us to our hard to find hotel deep in the hills of San Blas, Cusco.

We hit the sack ready for a completely different New Year's Eve in one of South America's craziest party cities!






Monday, 29 December 2014

Her name was Lola, she was a show girl...

Bolivia is famous for many things, none more so than for having intermittent or no, hot water.  Lonely Planet, Rough Guide and Trip Advisor reports are abundant with stories of travellers unable to get hot water or having to book showers in with hotel owners at certain times and to bang on the bathroom wall as soon as they'd finished but no longer than 2 minutes or the water would be stopped!

So, for the second day running, we ran the gauntlet of our rather unauthodox 'shower'.

The 'tap' to switch the shower on had definitely seen better days.


The 'shower'


Lauren went first and finished in record time reporting tepid temperatures and that the power was so little that she had to run around to get wet.

She left it running and I jumped in, just as it stopped. 30 seconds later it started and, realising this could be the start of a start/stop shower/Gareth relationship I formed a plan to make sure I wasn't left with soap or shampoo all over me (OK, the latter will never be an issue for me).

The next minute it appeared that the hotel manager had inadvertently managed to connect the hot water feed to a South American volcano and as I screamed with what felt like third degree burns, my unspoken prayers were immediately answered and the Eskimos jumped into action by attaching their best igloo water supply.

Safe to say, it was the quickest shower I'd ever had and i got dressed as if I was late for my next line on stage on Broadway.

We were checking out of our hotel and had left enough time for breakfast and to our absolute surprise, we sat at our breakfast table and were served the best South American breakfast yet, blowing our theory (bad room = bad breakfast) out of the boiling/freezing water!

We made our way downhill into Copacabana town and left our bags with the travel agent, met Dave and Eliot and walked to the harbour to board our boat to Isla Del Sol.

The boat ride took 2.5 hours to get there and the weather was cold and misty so we read books, chatted and wrote some blog posts!



We arrived at the North of the island and decided to trek the 6k uphill to see the ancient ruins left from Inca times. On the way the views were incredible and we saw loads of animals owned by the indigenous people.


Dave, me, Lauren & Eliot

An ancient sacrifice table (we think so anyway, we couldn't understand everything the guide was saying)!


3 little pigs 

Mary and her donkey made another appearance!

Isla Del Sol panoramic

The view on the way down:



We got back on the boat and headed to the south of the island where we only had 1 hour and the steps looked so steep that we decided to just sit and have a drink!



As soon as we got back to Copacabana (cue song again) we grabbed a quick drink, picked up our bags and got on our bus and within 20 minutes we were in Peru!


Border crossings are very strange and very unorganised here and this one was no different.

Everyone had to leave the bus and queue to have their passports stamped to leave Bolivia. 

Then, the bus left without us and we had to walk into Peru, find a little office (not at all clear) and check in with Peruvian customs, then get back on the bus! We genuinely think no one would've stopped us if we walked past the tiny office and into Peru!

2.5 hours later we arrived in Puno, jumped in a cab and got our heads down at our hostel (our cheapest accommodation yet at £15) for an early start the next day.






Dancing Monkeys

We awoke Sunday to the sound of pouring rain. 

We decided today wasn't the day to travel 2.5 hours by boat to Isla Del Sol, a beautiful island and biggest attraction at Copacabana. 

Also, using our newly gained travel experience, poor room normally equals poor breakfast, so we decided on another hour in bed and a brunch in town late morning instead!

Around 11am we went for brunch at a local Cafe and immediately bumped into Dave and Eliot who we'd met in La Paz on Christmas Day.

We decided to visit Isla Del Sol the next day together and went to the travel agent as a group and booked our tickets.

At the same time, Lauren and I booked a bus to Puno (Peru) for the same day (29th Dec) a trip to the floating islands near Puno and a bus from Puno to Cusco for 30th Dec as we had accommodation booked in Cusco from 30th until early January. Cusco is where we will be visiting Machu Pichu from.

We then took a walk down to the 'beach' which was packed with locals on Christmas holidays queuing to go on jet skis, peddlos and canoes.




It had actually turned out to be a beautiful day and so we all decided to head to a seafront bar with a roof terrace to'reward' ourselves with a few beers.

The roof terrace had the usual attention to Bolivian health & safety (ie, no handrails or ANYTHING to stop anyone falling off!



Eliot on the left, Lauren in the middle and Dave on the right


Lauren takes over the story from here:

When we were researching restaurants in the Copacabana area, none of them sounded amazing but we had read about a set of make shift restaurants on the beachfront. These were by no means fancy but were a fraction of the price compared to gringo (tourist) street. There were several of these restaurants but one was recommended above the others on trip advisor. Hut 9. So, we all set off to find Hut 9. 

Hut 9 was actually distinguishable from at least 20 meters away. Why you ask? Hmmmm, well...... We had come across Bolivian Gareth who had consumed his body weight in beer and was dancing like a man crossing a path of hot coals and waving his arms around like a monkey. Does this movement sound familiar to any of you? As Gareth had found his counterpart, he thought it was too good an opportunity not to miss and proceeded to join said Bolivian, showing him that he too, was capable of the coal monkey dance.

Here are a few photos that hopefully convey this special and unique dance:






Dave,'Waldo', Eliot and me doing an obligatory photo to avoid obligatory dancing!

Hopefully this trip will bring my husband out of his shell a bit ;-).

The Bolivian guy's son, with a very glazed look on his face, kept saying, 'my name is Waldo', turns out that he was trying to tell us that the dancing champion was called Waldo. What I haven't told you, is that this was 17:30 and he appeared to be out for an early dinner with his family.

Waldo's family wanted to leave but surprise surprise, he didn't. He was having too much fun with his new dancing partner. There was only one way for Waldo to leave and that was for his new best buddy (AKA Gareth), to dance him all the way to the end of the street where his family were waiting. 



After the excitement had subsided we settled down to a good dinner, I had trucha (trout) again and Gareth had beef Milanese. We also had a couple of beers and the bill came to £7, including tip!

It's common for bands/solo artists to effectively busk in the restaurant where you eat and today was no different. 3 guys from Chile serenaded us with a Chilean samba whilst we were tucking into our dinner. Whilst we enjoyed the music, we had no change for the musicians other than 50 Bolivianos which was about £5. This was a bit steep for buskers doing two songs so Gareth decided to get value, starting with another song. Now, as I mentioned before, Gareth is working on coming out of himself and he took another step forward today. Can you believe that he asked to play a song himself? Well the actual shock for me was that he didn't play Johnny B Good!!! So, what did he play? Well, another golden oldie,'twist and shout'. Everyone joined in and the band did backing vocals and then led into 'la bamba'. Gareth was satisfied and handed over the cash.



Earlier in the day Gareth had spotted a poker set in a cafe and suggested to our friends Dave and Eliot that we should play later that day. So that we did. Whilst playing poker another band played for us, they were fantastic and did 3 part harmonies. All in all, Gareth's dream day and a pretty good day for me too. We opted for a fairly early night as we are up early to explore Isla Del Sol tomorrow.

PPP poker face (the Brockles' won)

G with the second band of the night