I see dead people

We both awoke annoyingly early again on Wednesday morning. Our body clocks still on jungle time.

We got up, had breakfast (the best we have had in a hotel for a long, long time) and went in search of Arequipa's famous ancient convent.

Built in 1579, El Monasterio De Santa Catalina is a city within a city. I'll let you read the rest here:

You'll notice that most of the buildings are built of white stone. This is actually natural white volcanic rock from the three nearby volcanoes around Arequipa. Most of Arequipa is built from the same rock.

Rather than wander around on our own we plumped for an English speaking guide who took us around and explained lots of the history of the buildings & culture.

In the 1500s, the second girl born to a family would automatically have to join the convent at the age of 12 as a novice. They would have to stay for a minimum of 4 years at which point they would have the choice to become a Nun (for life) or leave & be disgraced. Incredibly 80% chose to stay.

On the rare occasion that the novices or Nuns were allowed to see family members, they had a senior Nun listening to their conversations and had to speak through two sets of wooden gates like these. Their family members would be outside the convent in the street.

They were sometimes allowed gifts but no make-up, cosmetics, mirrors etc. Gifts were passed through a revolving table so no contact was made.

We couldn't help but feel sorry for the 12 year old girls who were taken from their families with no choice. This first room we visited was just like a prison but worse!

These girls were being taught to pray continually and as we walked through the first cloister we saw 53 paintings on the walls, all numbered. These were used as rosary and the nuns prayed underneath each painting, in order, once a day.

The families of the young girls were supportive of them becoming nuns because they believed that, as she would be praying most of the day, every day for the rest of her life, they (the family) would get a better place in heaven when they died.

Something you don't see every day; A nun's bedroom.

Every nun was given their own sewing box and were taught to cook. Just wondering if they'd consider a short term enrollment for Lauren? (I just got a sharp elbow in the chest for that comment!)

Looks like this nun managed to shake the habit

The chapel

This really was a city within a city. They had streets, shops and even their own cemetery & morgue.

Superior nuns would get the bigger units at the front to be laid out in, everyone else the smaller one at the back.

One creepy thing was that, when a nun died they would call a local artist to come and paint a portrait of the corpse! This was apparently to celebrate their life. However, check out this picture of one Mother Superior and tell me if this celebrates her life?!!

She looks very dead to me. Maybe the artist was on holiday when they called him. I reckon he took a good couple of weeks to get there!!

This is the only one in a gallery of dead people that had her eyes open. Why? Because she died with her eyes open apparently! Again, still VERY dead looking and creepy!

Beautiful streets

Each proper nun (not the young novices) had their own 'houses' within the convent which were paid for by their families. The richer the family, the bigger the house. They also each had at least one servant.

This is where the servant would cook for the nun.

This was just a sh*t hole (sorry Mum!)

More stunning streets

This is where the servants would wash clothes and bedding for the nuns. #nunlaundarette

In the late 15th century, this Mother Superior was fed up of just dead people getting their portrait painted so, against all tradition, she asked a local artist to paint her portrait whist she was still alive.

It was against all the rules but, looking at her, I don't think I'd have argued!

#nunrebel 

Blushes all around: A nun bath. They would bathe in twos and fully clothed. It was regarded a sin for anyone to see you naked.

We then went up onto a roof terrace where the selfie stick made an appearance, capturing one of the three local volcanoes in the background.

The last cloister. These are still volcanic rock walls but they have been painted.

There used to be about 500 people living here (including servants) but now there are just 21 nuns as it is no longer compulsory. What a commitment to give your life to live in solitude like this. 

Before today, if Lauren had suggested we go and visit a convent, I would've been NUN too pleased. I was worried that if I liked it, it might turn into a HABIT. However, I didn't want to make her CROSS so I agreed to go and enCHOIR what it was all about. #nunpun

After the convent we had lunch (usual food pic below) then briefly walked around Arequipa.

This is one of the incredibly ornate carvings on a bank in the town centre. The unique white volcanic rock is very easy to carve apparently.

Main square selfie, squinting in the sunlight!

After our brief tour of Arequipa we went back to collect our bags and made our way to the airport and boarded our plane to the capital of Peru, Lima.

Compared to Arequipa, Lima looked HUGE from the air!

We were collected from the airport by the guest house's taxi service (eventually!) and 40 mins later we were tucked up in our boiling hot bedroom with 2 fans working overtime to keep us from overheating!

Tomorrow; time to book a trip and explore some of Lima!

Lauren's thoughts:

I was told by a few people that Arequipa was worth the detour for. Thanks Paul Elliston for the initial suggestion. It was a really beautiful colonial town with impressive architecture and a stunning backdrop of volcanoes PLUS the food was really good. One happy Lauren.

But there was one thing that tainted it for me, actually one person. Gareth Brocklebank. I thought, coming to the other side if the world would cure him of his pun obsession but I fear, after his convent experience, it has only got worse. That said, I am over 10 weeks in and he is still alive. This is a good sign ;-) The trouble is it's starting to rub off on me. 

I suppose if I can't beat him, I'll have to join HYMN!!!!!!